Social Media & Shopping Influence for Chinese tourists

Chinese shoppers spendingXiaoyan Mao had not yet collected her luggage after landing at Charles de Gaulle Airport from Shanghai recently. But she and a friend were already mapping out a game plan for the three days they would spend in Paris before continuing a 10-day European blitz with additional stops in Switzerland, Italy and Germany.
Their to-do list included visiting the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower. But what were they looking forward to most on their first trip to the region?
Ms. Mao, 28, a sales manager, smiled broadly. “Chanel,” she said. “Prada.”
Tourists like Ms. Mao are part of a growing wave of newly affluent Chinese taking advantage of more direct flights to the shopping capitals of Europe. The Lunar New Year holiday is now underway, a time when a big part of the 110 million Chinese expected to travel abroad this year will be packing their bags — and their wallets — for luxury expeditions.
And purveyors of European luxury brands, anticipating the arrival of this important clientele, stand ready to embrace it, whether by offering guided tours, in Mandarin, of flagship showrooms; providing backstage access to couture runway shows; or engaging in a variety of other flourishes tailored for the Chinese tourist-shopper.
Storied European brands like Burberry, Hermès and Dior can be bought in high-end shops and shopping malls of major Chinese cities, of course. But for reasons including higher taxes in China and lower prices in Europe, Chinese consumers, who buy more luxury products than shoppers of any other nationality, prefer to do their buying abroad. Of the more than $80 billion in Chinese purchases of personal luxury goods last year, two-thirds were made outside China.
Flagging demand in China itself was a factor cited last week by the Paris-based LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury goods group, for the company’s flat profit last year. That is all the more reason the company and many of its peers are starting to plow more money into European showcases and shift investments away from the Chinese mainland.
Last year, for example, Louis Vuitton opened a three-store, 10,000-square-foot “townhouse,” complete with spinning glass elevator, atop a Selfridges department store on Oxford Street in London.
“There is a major shift happening now with brands,” said Manelik Sfez, head of marketing for Global Blue, a tax-refund company in Geneva that tracks luxury purchases. “They are starting to reconsider their whole structure and the ways they market themselves.”
In catering to the Chinese shopper, some European makers of luxury goods seek to leverage their brands’ heritage and savoir-faire by conducting tours of their landmark European stores — or even setting up museums in them, as Vuitton has done with its “Espace Culturel” on the Champs-Élysées in Paris. Others organize invitation-only demonstrations of the craftsmanship that goes into the products, which companies and analysts say holds a particular appeal for Chinese visitors.

Gieves & Hawkes, the 240-year-old London tailor, for example, lures Chinese groups away from the bustle of Bond Street to its store at 1 Savile Row, which houses an extensive archive of royal and military regalia dating to the 18th century. The visit, which is translated by a Mandarin-speaking guide, includes a stop in the store’s bespoke workshop, where the company still hand-sews 1,000 suits a year.
“In terms of seeing all the components of a luxury brand, it is very immersive,” said Simon Baker, marketing director for the company, which has more than 100 stores in China. “Our Chinese guests are looking to learn what being dressed by a Savile Row tailor is all about, and why it is more luxurious and prestigious.”
The Italian design house Ermenegildo Zegna works with boutique travel agencies, and hotels favored by affluent Chinese, to offer V.I.P. tickets and backstage passes to its European fashion shows.
Zegna has also followed brands like Louis Vuitton and Burberry, already active on the social media platform Sina Weibo, in creating an official account on the wildly popular mobile messaging service Weixin — known outside China as WeChat . So has Harrods, the London department store, which counts Chinese visitors as its largest foreign customer group.
Such efforts are part of the image burnishing that analysts say is as important in marketing to these visiting consumers as selling individual wares.
A Chinese tourist who returns home with a memorable experience to share can be a powerful ambassador for a brand, said Philip Guarino, co-founder of the consulting firm Emerging Market Luxury Advisors.
“You are dealing with a demographic, not a geography, so you need to think in nongeographic terms,” Mr. Guarino said. “Some brands have 150 store locations in China alone,” he said. “But their cash registers are in Europe and the United States.”
Just how dependent the European luxury sector has become on Chinese visitors became starkly evident late last year. In October, China passed a consumer-protection law prohibiting travel agencies from subsidizing group tours to Europe by including mandatory stops at high-end department stores like Galeries Lafayette in Paris or La Rinascente in Milan.
Beijing considered the practice — whereby mass-market agencies used commissions from retailers to offset deeply discounted package tours — to be misleading. Mr. Sfez, of Global Blue, estimated that before the law changed, such captive buying represented roughly 40 percent of all Chinese luxury purchases in Europe.
The law had a striking effect on Chinese tourists’ luxury spending in the fourth quarter, halving sales growth across the European Union to 9.5 percent compared with growth rates of 20 percent or more in the preceding three quarters of last year.
But analysts do not expect a reversal of the broader trend, because higher prices in China compel so many Chinese to prefer shopping overseas. Luxury handbags, which might sell for $1,000 to $5,000, cost on average nearly a third less in Europe than in mainland China, according to Renaissance Capital, a Russian investment bank. Markups by Western brands are common in China, where foreign companies must navigate a thicket of red tape to do business and pay high rents for premium retailing space.
The price gap is further widened by China’s high taxes on consumers. On top of an import duty of 10 percent, Beijing levies a value-added tax of 17 percent and sales taxes that can range from 5 percent to 20 percent, depending on the item. Some other Chinese cities add taxes as well.
Foreign visitors to the European Union who spend more than 175 euros, or $236, in the same store on the same day, meanwhile, are entitled to a rebate on the value-added tax, which in most member states hovers around 20 percent.
Chinese consumers’ embrace of the Internet and social media platforms like Sina Weibo has also increased access to information about luxury goods abroad, allowing them to comparison shop before they even board a plane. Applications like Weixin let people share their foreign shopping experiences in real time, check prices and send photos as they weigh their purchases — or even take orders on behalf of friends back home.
Digital travel magazines, such as the Shanghai Travelers’ Club, have also their Sina Weibo page and publish a curated content about little known luxury brands, as well as tips on how to purchase a private jet or a private island.
Armed with these digital tools, a growing number of Chinese travelers, particularly younger ones, are forgoing the classic group tours and venturing abroad independently. That trend, with the ban on commission-subsidized tours, is driving more tourists to explore beyond the big European flagship stores in the fanciest districts, analysts said.
It also exposes entrenched legacy brands to intense competition in China from increasingly popular rivals like Bottega Veneta of Italy or Mulberry of Britain.
That means the bigger design and fashion houses will need to be more nimble than ever in adapting to the changing habits of their Chinese clientele, according to Federica Levato, a luxury analyst in Milan at the management consultants Bain & Company.
“If they don’t catch up quickly, they will become less competitive,” Ms. Levato said. “Just as they anticipate fashion trends, they now have to anticipate changes in consumer behavior.”

Source: New York Times

Advertisements

Luxury brands’ war for Chinese consumers

Wealthy Chinese woman- Shanghai Travelers' ClubIn the the heart of old Shanghai is a magnificent villa that serves as the workplace of Guo Jingming, a provocative young film-maker. “Tiny Times”, his recent blockbuster, follows the travails of some fashionable college girls (pictured, in the walk-in closet of one of them). Its depictions of the high life, rarely shown in Chinese films, have set social networks ablaze; they have also been attacked by the People’s Daily for “unconditional hedonism”. Mr Guo says: “So what? Materialism is neutral, neither positive nor negative.” After all, he goes on, China’s cosmopolitans know at any given moment what movies are playing in New York and what fashions are on the Paris runways.
China’s once-drab and Mao-suited interior is not so far behind. In Mianyang, a middling city in the province of Sichuan, an enormous billboard featuring Miranda Kerr, an Australian supermodel, draped in Swarovski crystals welcomes shoppers to the Parkson shopping mall. It is one of half a dozen high-end malls in town. Luxury sales are exploding there. Local Audi and BMW dealers sell more than 100 cars each a month; Land Rover, Jaguar and Cadillac have just muscled in on the market.
Thirty kilometres (20 miles) away in Luxi, a town of 57,000 people, online shopping is hot. The first express-delivery office opened only three years ago, and handled perhaps ten packages a day; today, there are five, each handling 100 packages a day. Even 60km away, in rural Santai county where farm-workers are the customers, one modern shopping mall has sprung up and another is being built. “Customers are evolving very quickly from the low-end market to the middle and high-end,” says Yang Shuiying, proud general manager of the Zizhou shopping centre.
In the 1950s and 1960s the world economy was transformed by the emergence of the American consumer. Now China seems poised to become the next consumption superpower. In all likelihood, it has just overtaken Japan to become the world’s second-biggest consumer economy. Its roughly $3.3 trillion in private consumption is about 8% of the world total, and it has only just begun.

“The future of the world will be profoundly shaped by China’s rush toward consumerism,” says Karl Gerth, an expert on Chinese consumption at the University of California, San Diego. Although investment made the biggest contribution to China’s growth last year, and although private consumption’s share of output, now at 36%, fell between 2000 and 2010, that trend is unlikely to last, for several reasons.
First, boosting the people’s desire to consume is a stated goal of China’s leaders. Higher government spending on health care and pensions may encourage households to save less for such things. Higher interest rates may, paradoxically, discourage thrift if people reach their savings goals faster. Rising wages and an ageing population will also shift the balance towards consumption rather than saving. And although household debt is growing fast, China still has relatively little.
Besides, consumption has not fallen in absolute terms. It has, in fact, grown briskly—just not quite as quickly as the economy overall. In dollar terms, China contributed more than any other country to the growth in global consumption in 2011-13, according to Andy Rothman of CLSA, a broker. Moreover, China’s official statistics understate some consumption—spending on housing, for example.
A massive push to urbanise is also under way, which should produce tens of millions of richer citizens seeking retail therapy. McKinsey, a consultancy, forecasts that consumption by urban Chinese households will increase from 10 trillion yuan in 2012 to nearly 27 trillion yuan in 2022.Shanghai Travelers' Club private event - Hermes
How much China spends is striking. Even more so is the way it spends. This is now one of the world’s most sophisticated consumer markets, heavily skewed towards expensive goods. Local property barons are now building half the world’s new shopping malls in China, many of them in smaller cities, because even punters without big incomes are becoming big shoppers. Research by IDEO, a consultancy, has found that many young migrant workers earning less than 5,000 yuan ($830) a month will spend a month’s wages on an Apple iPhone.
That points to another difference from previous consumption booms elsewhere: with the world’s largest e-commerce market at their fingertips, Chinese shoppers are online from the start. As a result, what was once a foreign marketers’ fantasyland is now the world’s fiercest battleground for brands.
Sanford C. Bernstein, a research firm, calls the Chinese “increasingly aspirational and conspicuous consumers” who routinely trade up to fancier labels even on staples. Newly middle-class types in cities in the interior are keen to try out new products, especially the ones they have seen on foreign television shows. Jeff Walters of the Boston Consulting Group (BCG) points out that even country bumpkins are consuming global media, thanks to the wild popularity of local online-video services. Chinese consumers, he says, were watching the latest season of “Downton Abbey” on Youku, a video-sharing website, well before it was released in America.
This passion for fashion is, in theory, good news for multinational marketers. Unlike, say, Japan, where consumers heavily favour local brands, Chinese consumers hold foreign brands in high esteem. Torsten Stocker of AT Kearney, a consultancy, observes that foreign brands are doing well in sectors they introduced to China (chewing gum, chocolate); those that have “heritage” appeal (premium cars, luxury goods) and those where local brands are not trusted, such as powdered baby milk. The world’s fast-food and consumer-goods giants—Procter & Gamble, Pepsi, General Mills and so on—are also big in China, but they are increasingly dogged by local rivals. A recent study by Bain, another consultancy, found that although foreign brands still lead in some areas (biscuits, fabric-softener, bottled water), local brands are surging in others (toothpaste, cosmetics, juice).
Brand-hopping, though, is rife. Having grown up with radical economic change, Chinese shoppers are “very fickle, and hard to pin down to a strong brand loyalty”, says Mintel, a market-research firm. Yuval Atsmon of McKinsey reckons that brand-switching—between Pepsi and Coke, Colgate and Crest, KFC and McDonald’s—is common, “much more so than in most markets”. Swarovski, the crystal-maker, has discovered that over three-quarters of Chinese customers are eager to try new brands, a far higher figure than elsewhere. A recent study by Bain found that the top five brands in ten categories lost 30-60% of their customers between 2011 and 2012.

This creates several problems. With two or three times as many brands on shelves as found in other countries, competition is ferocious. This makes advertising and marketing vital—but the cost of publicity is soaring. Also, firms that thought they enjoyed a “first-mover advantage” have discovered that their brands are now seen as stodgy or old-fashioned. Olay, a cosmetics brand, defined skin care in China for a generation—but Carol Potter of BBDO, an advertising agency, reckons that “the new generation thinks it’s a brand from yesterday.” She adds that whereas Louis Vuitton once symbolised good and expensive taste in China, a new generation is seeking different, subtler luxuries. Luxury travel magazines like the Shanghai Travelers’ Club, an iPad publication reserved for High Net Worth Chinese socialites are also advocating a more sophisticated spending ” Today, the new generation of Chinese consumers want to differentiate from their parents – who have already Louis Vuitton products.” says Pierre Gervois, CEO of China Elite Focus Magazines LLC and Publisher of the Shanghai Travelers’ Club. “Buying a Cottin gold plated Laptop or a tailor made Goyard in Paris trunk is much more distinctive”, he added.Shanghai Travelers' Club Cover Summer 2013
Another complication for marketers is that many Chinese shoppers have a global outlook. When previous middle classes rose to prominence in America and Japan, the internet did not exist. People could not Google the latest European fashions or check discounts on Amazon. The arrival of cheap air travel has also made the Chinese more discerning shoppers. Mr Stocker argues that these factors have “compressed the discovery process”, which in Japan took 30 years, to less than ten.
The Chinese are already the world’s biggest shoppers abroad, but a report released on January 20th by CLSA forecasts that the number of outbound Chinese tourists will double to 200m a year by 2020 and that their spending will triple over that time. James Button of SmithStreet, a consultancy, reports a well established piece of etiquette: “You must let friends know when you are going overseas,” and take along an empty suitcase.
Many Chinese also use online shopping agents, who aggregate requests and bring back foreign goods. Sales by overseas purchase agents came to nearly 50 billion yuan in 2012, a leap of more than 80% on the year earlier; they jumped by half again last year to 74.4. billion yuan. Foreign websites, including Amazon, now offer direct delivery to China for certain products, and local e-commerce giants such as Alibaba run cross-border services.
Buying overseas saves money, since mark-ups and hefty taxes are the rule in China. Many ordinary folk travel not just to Hong Kong, the most convenient spot, but to Jeju Island in South Korea (where they can visit without a visa and shop duty-free) to stock up on cosmetics that cost much more at home. Price, though, is not the only motivation. Another is to avoid the counterfeit goods so common on the mainland. Even more important, consumers say, are the variety and freshness of the products available overseas.

Nowhere is this wide-ranging urge to spend more obvious than in the market for luxury goods. Globally the Chinese are the biggest buyers of expensive items, accounting for some 29% of purchases last year (see chart 2). Some two-thirds of Chinese spending on luxury goods takes place outside the mainland; a fifth of it in Europe. (Harrods of London has seen sales to Chinese shoppers, its largest foreign contingent, increase by 50% a year since 2011.) Consistently favoured brands include Lancôme, Gucci, Audi, Rolex and Tiffany.
The Chinese are also the world’s largest consumers of Bordeaux wine and cognac, though sales (like those of Moutai, a local grain alcohol) have fallen in the wake of official campaigns against gift-giving. At Berry Bros & Rudd’s bonded wine warehouse in Basingstoke, in southern England, where 4.5m expensive bottles are stored, more than 1m of those are owned by oenophiles from greater China. No longer, says the firm’s chairman, should the Chinese be pictured ruining fine wine by pouring Coca-Cola into it.
Although a government crackdown on corruption has crimped mainland sales, and some luxury firms slowed down the rollout of new boutiques there last year, Coach, Prada and Bottega Veneta continued to expand. Apple expanded too; it now has more stores in Shanghai than in San Francisco, and launches new iPhones in Beijing when it does in California. Mr Button of SmithStreet thinks brands offering affordable luxury—Michael Kors and Kate Spade, say—can capture both the upwardly mobile and the “post-luxury” elites in the cities, who want less flashy brands.
In the past, the Chinese showed little interest in Western art. That is starting to change, and may change quicker with the opening of a new museum of Western art in Shanghai. The richest man in China has just paid $28m for a Picasso, though he was condemned as “unpatriotic” on Sina Weibo. Ms Potter also observes that two-thirds of affluent consumers are keen to know the history and cultural background of foreign brands. So they love to buy Piaget watches in Geneva and Zegna suits in Milan, but reject unconventional offerings such as German watches or Japanese leather bags.
It is not only in luxury goods that Chinese shoppers are leading the way. China has become the world’s biggest e-commerce market, with spending forecast to reach $540 billion next year. On Singles Day, an annual online-marketing extravaganza held on November 11th, 400m Chinese spent $5.7 billion just on Tmall, an e-commerce platform run by Alibaba; Americans, on their Cyber Monday a few weeks later, spent only about $2 billion. China is the world’s biggest maker and consumer of smartphones, and will soon be the largest “mobile-commerce” market, too.
Perhaps because they distrust official information, the Chinese rely heavily on peer reviews. Research by BCG has shown that they write, and act on, online reviews of products and services far more than Westerners do. A recent study of purchases of moisturiser found that two-thirds of Chinese buyers relied on online recommendations by friends or family; the comparable figure in America was less than 40%. Millions of online shoppers follow the thoughts of Miumiu and Viviandan, leggy twins from industrial Chongqing, who started posting pictures of themselves in the latest fashions, with wry observations on trends and prices, a decade ago. Even now they post recommendations nearly every day on social-media sites such as Instagram, or on Weibo. Their likes and dislikes make or break products.Wealthy Chinese reading the Shanghai Travelers' Club magazine on its iPhone
Online shoppers in the remotest parts of China often know a great deal about a global brand’s attributes and pricing worldwide—which can put marketers on the back foot. Chinese consumers are no longer willing to pay a hefty premium for any old foreign brand. As they grow more discerning, multinationals are having to work harder to prove their worth—and are having to defend their brands on China’s wild social media. But creative approaches can pay off.
When VF Corporation, a large American clothing firm, wanted to promote The North Face, a brand of outdoor clothing, in China, it struggled. Whereas climbers and hikers in the West relish the thought of conquering mountains alone, the Chinese generally think of outings in Nature as a spiritual escape, to be enjoyed with friends. So the firm created an online community linking amateurs to clubs devoted to outdoor pursuits. The website offers points for activity and loyalty that can be redeemed for products. Sales are soaring, and VF now has a detailed database of over half a million keen customers.
The online awareness of Chinese customers has big global implications. According to Andrew Keith, the president of Lane Crawford, cosmopolitan Chinese consumers are now setting the agenda: “We are not teaching them, they are teaching us.” (He should know; his Hong Kong department store has half a dozen shops in greater China, 650,000 high-spending customers and, in the new Shanghai store, private suites for “Platinum VIPs” who spend 60,000 yuan or more a year.) Alexis Perakis-Valat, head of L’Oréal’s China business, agrees. He believes that the Chinese market, unlike those in Western countries, is driven by young urban consumers who are demanding something new and have no taboos. He points to peculiar and distinctive products developed for this niche in China, such as a black-foam face-scrub for men, which are now being launched around the world.
Another sign of such innovation is the reinvention of Johnnie Walker, a mass-market whisky brand belonging to Diageo, the world’s biggest spirits firm, as a luxury brand in China. Keen to win over sceptical consumers more accustomed to baijiu (a local firewater), the firm opened Johnnie Walker House in Shanghai almost three years ago. For around 800,000 yuan, or $132,000, the company’s master blender (with the delicious surname of Beveridge) will fly in and brew a special batch of Johnnie Walker precisely matched to a customer’s tastes. Certain rare blends, including some bearing the marks of the Chinese zodiac, are sold only at this venue.
This effort has helped Diageo introduce its whiskies to thousands of affluent customers, who in turn have pushed the firm towards new inventions—such as blends with a much higher alcohol content—which helped its whisky revenues grow twice as fast as the industry average. The concept has been such a success that the company has opened new Houses in Beijing and Seoul, and plans others. When Diageo unveiled Odyssey, a special-edition blend, in 2012, it kicked off the global launch not in London or New York but in Shanghai.
Life was simpler for foreign brands when they first came to China, reflects David Roth of The Store, an advertising agency: “It was a land grab…you just had to create awareness as quickly as possible.” Now the Western invaders must not only cater to the world’s most demanding shoppers, but also cope with increasing home-grown competition. Chinese firms are starting to catch up with their fancier foreign rivals. Some even aspire to become global brands.
Huawei, a telecoms-equipment giant, is making a big push into branded consumer electronics. “We have it easier than Samsung did,” says Colin Giles, chief marketing officer for its consumer business, because Korean firms paved the way for global acceptance of Chinese brands. Xiaomi, a startup smartphone manufacturer in Beijing, has developed a hugely popular phone-and-app system inspired as much by Amazon as by Apple. It could become China’s first global innovation powerhouse.
Leading the local pack is Lenovo, an electronics firm that previously bought IBM’s personal-computer business (and on January 23rd agreed to buy its low-end server business, too). When it launched its latest Yoga tablet last year it chose Ashton Kutcher, a Hollywood star who had played Steve Jobs in a film, as its spokesman. David Roman, Lenovo’s chief marketing officer, says that even a few years ago it would have been unthinkable to do a global product launch in China with a single tagline, unified advertising content and a Western spokesman. But now he thinks there is “a global consuming class”, with more in common across borders than within.
That sums up the rise of China nicely. Future consumer markets everywhere are going to look more Chinese. They will increasingly be cosmopolitan, luxury-minded and online. Firms that can flourish in China are not only winning today’s toughest market, but are also positioning themselves for tomorrow’s.

Source: The Economist.

Travel Retail Ready for Chinese Shoppers

Chinese shoppers - Luxury Hotels of AmericaLuxury brands are stepping up the battle for travelling shoppers with more outlets at airports and on cruise ships, tapping into one of the fastest growing sections of the market that looks set to keep booming thanks to soaring numbers of Asian tourists.

Revenues from travel retail, which also includes sales on airplanes, rose 9.4 percent in 2012 to $55.8 billion, according to a market study by Generation Research.

It should reach $60 billion this year and nearly double in size by 2020, the study forecast.

“This channel is becoming very important,” Bruno Pavlovsky, chairman of Chanel’s fashion business, said. “Customers are spending time in airports where the environment has become increasingly sophisticated.”

The French luxury brand, the world’s second-biggest behind Louis Vuitton by sales, has boutiques in four Asian airports and one at London’s Heathrow, and next year will open a boutique in Paris Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport and another in Dubai.

Kering’s Gucci, which like mega-brand rival Louis Vuitton has suffered a slowdown in the past two years partly due to emerging market shoppers’ growing preference for logo-free products, has opened boutiques in the same locations recently.

Tourism spending is up 12 percent worldwide since January while spending by Chinese tourists in Europe is up closer to 20 percent, according to data from tax-refund company Global Blue.

According to Pierre Gervois, CEO of China Elite Focus Magazines LLC, the publishing company owning the Shanghai Travelers’ Club magazine “Chinese shoppers want to differentiate from regular shoppers in Mainland China who can’t afford to travel. Buying luxury good overseas shows that you belong to the community of affluent consumers who can buy in Paris, London or New York – and not in a Beijing store with a generally bad customer service and the fear of having counterfeit goods, even in official flagship stores”

Chinese tourists, who barely featured in luxury brands’ customer statistics a little over a decade ago, now make up 29 percent of global luxury spending, consultancy Bain & Co said in a report published this week.

That trend is set to continue, with Boston Consulting Group (BCG) forecasting nearly half of all air traffic in the medium term will come from the Asia Pacific versus 37 percent now.

Though most luxury brands raised prices, particularly in the euro zone and in Japan, to make up for currency moves, Bain estimates that over two thirds of luxury spending by mainland Chinese was made overseas in 2013, due partly to local duties.

According to Renaissance Capital, Europe remains the cheapest market for handbags with price 9 percent below those in Hong Kong and 28 percent below mainland China, while the yen’s weakness has played in favor of luxury shoppers in Japan.

BCG expects the Chinese travel market will grow at a compound annual rate of about 11 percent from 2012 to 2030.

Chinese urban travelers took about 500 million domestic and outbound trips in 2012, spending about $260 billion, and it expects those numbers to increase to 1.7 billion trips and $1.8 trillion in spending by 2030.

Hermes, which has 50 boutiques in airports around the world, is turning these into proper free-standing shops to better tap the booming market.

“This channel affects customers that are more interested in luxury than the average,” said Patrick Albaladejo, deputy managing director of Hermes, adding that travel retail represented a “significant” portion of the brand’s total sales.

L’Oreal, the world’s biggest cosmetics group and maker of Lancome creams and Yves Saint Laurent lipstick, created a division last month dedicated to travel retail, which it described as a “sixth continent.”

Sales from travel retail generate 15 percent of total revenues at L’Oreal’s luxury division and 12 percent for rival Guerlain, the perfume and cosmetics brand owned by LVMH.

Perfume and cosmetics represent the biggest product category for travel retail with 28 percent of the market, according to Generation Research, ahead of wines and spirits with an 18 percent market share, fashion and accessories with 13.5 percent and watches and jewelry with 12.2 percent.

LVMH, which owns Louis Vuitton, is planning to launch in 2016 a new retail concept called Galleria, specially designed for travel luxury shoppers, first in Venice and then perhaps in Paris, in the former Samaritaine retail building which is due to be converted into a five-star hotel.

Sales from LVMH’s travel retail network, which includes duty-free shop chain DFS and Sephora cosmetics shops, another popular tourist destination, saw like-for-like growth of 19 percent in the nine months to September 30. The boost included contributions from LVMH’s new DFS concessions in Hong Kong.

By comparison, sales from LVMH’s fashion and leather goods, the bulk of which come from Louis Vuitton, rose by only 4 percent during the period.